Gibson Tenor TU-3 Early 1950's
WELCOME TO MY UKULELE SITE
This is a work in progress and still under construction.
so bear with me on a baritone!!!
This is a work in progress and still under construction.
so bear with me on a baritone!!!
This site is about my collection, as well as some ukuleles I would
like to own. The one on this page is a Gibson Tenor from the 1950's.
Wish I owned this one. I am going to have one section here dedicated to some
history and photos that I have collected over the years of some of my favorite ukuleles.
Feel free to contact me with some photos of your favorites and I will post them on
the History page. Thanks for stopping by and keep on playing.
like to own. The one on this page is a Gibson Tenor from the 1950's.
Wish I owned this one. I am going to have one section here dedicated to some
history and photos that I have collected over the years of some of my favorite ukuleles.
Feel free to contact me with some photos of your favorites and I will post them on
the History page. Thanks for stopping by and keep on playing.
History
The ukulele is commonly associated with music from Hawaii, where the name roughly translates as "jumping flea", and was developed there in the 1880s as a combination of the Madeiran BRAGUINHA and RAJAO. A BRAGUINHA is an instrument similar to a Cavaquinho, built in the city of Braga and named after it; the Portuguese Cavaquinho is usually tuned in D-G-B-D, a G-major chord. The Madeira RAJAO is tuned D-G-C-E-A. The D and G strings are both re-entrant, i.e., tuned an octave higher than expected in the normal low-to-high course of strings. The GCEA strings of the rajao are the source of the re-entrant tuning of the modern ukulele[1].
Some of the most valuable ukuleles, which may run into the thousands of dollars in price, are made from koa (Acacia koa), a local wood known for its fine tone and attractive color and figure.
U.S. mainland
The ukulele was popularized for a stateside audience[2] during the Panama Pacific International Exposition, held for most of 1915 in San Francisco, at which the Hawaiian Pavilion featured a guitar and ukulele ensemble, George E. K. Awai and his Royal Hawaiian Quartette, along with ukulele maker and player Jonah Kumalae. The popularity of the ensemble with visitors launched a fad for Hawaiian-themed songs among Tin Pan Alley songwriters. The ensemble also introduced both the lap steel guitar and the ukulele into U.S. mainland popular music, where it was taken up by vaudeville performers such as Roy Smeck and Cliff "Ukulele Ike" Edwards. The ukulele became an icon of the Jazz Age as this highly portable and relatively inexpensive instrument also proved popular with amateur players throughout the 1920s, as is evidenced by the introduction of uke chord tablature into the published sheet music for popular songs of the time (a role that would eventually be supplanted by the guitar). A number of mainland-based instrument manufacturers, among them Regal, Harmony, and Martin, added ukulele, banjolele, and tiple lines to their production to take advantage of the demand.
Sizes of Ukuleles
There are four different sizes, and as the size increases, obviously the tone and volume increase.The Soprano (often called "standard" in Hawaii) is the smallest, and the original size 'ukulele.
In the 1920's the Concert size was developed, and designed to be an enhanced Soprano, being slightly larger and thus slightly louder and deeper in tone.
And a few years later the Tenor was created, being much larger than both the Soprano and Concert, and thus more volume and deeper bass tone. The Tenor size often has one or two wound bass strings, producing even more deeep resonance.
The largest size 'ukulele is the Baritone. With a 10" body width, and tuned DGBE (the same as a guitar), it is considered a miniature 4-string guitar.
The Soprano and Concert are going to have a more traditional, light and bright tone. The Tenor and Baritone are larger and produce more of a "little" guitar sound. Aside from what's traditional, the most popular sizes today are the Concert and Tenor.
In addition to the 4-string instruments, multiple string 'ukuleles are available. The concert size can be made with five strings, the top two in high unison. And the Tenor and Baritone 'ukulele are available with six and eight string combinations.
In the 1920's the Concert size was developed, and designed to be an enhanced Soprano, being slightly larger and thus slightly louder and deeper in tone.
And a few years later the Tenor was created, being much larger than both the Soprano and Concert, and thus more volume and deeper bass tone. The Tenor size often has one or two wound bass strings, producing even more deeep resonance.
The largest size 'ukulele is the Baritone. With a 10" body width, and tuned DGBE (the same as a guitar), it is considered a miniature 4-string guitar.
The Soprano and Concert are going to have a more traditional, light and bright tone. The Tenor and Baritone are larger and produce more of a "little" guitar sound. Aside from what's traditional, the most popular sizes today are the Concert and Tenor.
In addition to the 4-string instruments, multiple string 'ukuleles are available. The concert size can be made with five strings, the top two in high unison. And the Tenor and Baritone 'ukulele are available with six and eight string combinations.
Intonation
Intonation (music) From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia "Intonation, in music, is a player's realization of pitch accuracy in music to oneself and across an ensemble. If musicians have "bad intonation", it means they play or sing out of tune. Intonation can also mean tuning.
Strings
In string instruments, intonation is more of a worry than in other instruments. Because most string instruments are UN-fretted, if a finger is too high or too low by even a fraction of an inch, the note will be out of tune. The process of gaining good intonation typically takes many years of playing to acquire and is arguably the hardest part of learning a stringed instrument."
Ukulele Intonation
Although almost all fret-boards on production ukuleles are very accurately cut with a laser cutter that is computer driven, the very short free string length of the ukulele as very unforgiving in regard to perfect intonation. In addition, plastic strings, such as nylon are not as precision as steel strings as found on guitars, banjos mandolins, etc. Plastic string relax and tend to go flat... and really drive you nuts the first couple of weeks after they are installed on an instrument. Further, intonation depends a lot on the skill of the player. And lastly intonation changes as we change the key in which we play.
The Ukulele is the instrument of "innocent merriment.
Ukuleles are fun instruments and are acoustic physics laboratories with small sound chambers.
People pay thousands of dollars for custom guitars to improve intonation, You can spend just as much on a ukulele to match the same precision. You can also get a very nice playable Ukulele for a few hundred dollars, it's all about having the uke set up properly.
If you are frustrated with your uke over intonation, try changing the strings to a set of premium brand strings like Aquila or Worth. Sometimes this can do a world of good.
Intonation is how true a note is to pitch as the player moves up the fingerboard. A �true� instrument when properly set up should, at the twelfth fret produce the same note as an open string just on octave higher (e.g. open A string first course 440Hz, twelfth fret 880Hz). Another test is to play a 12th fret "harmonic" and then check it with a fretted 12 fret note. A "true" instrument should hit each note played exactly to what frequency that is required (G=392 Hz, C=261.6 Hz, E=329.6 Hz and so on). Intonation is the most important facet in building a fine instrument. This is followed very closely by playability. Now, how do we achieve intonation? It would be very simple to just double the measurement from the twelfth fret, glue on the bridge and say it close enough, but that isn't so, and never forget that an instrument expands and contracts and wood breathes.
Another factor affecting intonation is an individuals playing style, this will ultimately play a role with the instruments intonation. If the player is a hard strum er and bends his or her strings during cording (which elongates the strings and throws of the pitch) The good news is the player is having fun and that is what the ukulele is all about.
Strings
In string instruments, intonation is more of a worry than in other instruments. Because most string instruments are UN-fretted, if a finger is too high or too low by even a fraction of an inch, the note will be out of tune. The process of gaining good intonation typically takes many years of playing to acquire and is arguably the hardest part of learning a stringed instrument."
Ukulele Intonation
Although almost all fret-boards on production ukuleles are very accurately cut with a laser cutter that is computer driven, the very short free string length of the ukulele as very unforgiving in regard to perfect intonation. In addition, plastic strings, such as nylon are not as precision as steel strings as found on guitars, banjos mandolins, etc. Plastic string relax and tend to go flat... and really drive you nuts the first couple of weeks after they are installed on an instrument. Further, intonation depends a lot on the skill of the player. And lastly intonation changes as we change the key in which we play.
The Ukulele is the instrument of "innocent merriment.
Ukuleles are fun instruments and are acoustic physics laboratories with small sound chambers.
People pay thousands of dollars for custom guitars to improve intonation, You can spend just as much on a ukulele to match the same precision. You can also get a very nice playable Ukulele for a few hundred dollars, it's all about having the uke set up properly.
If you are frustrated with your uke over intonation, try changing the strings to a set of premium brand strings like Aquila or Worth. Sometimes this can do a world of good.
Intonation is how true a note is to pitch as the player moves up the fingerboard. A �true� instrument when properly set up should, at the twelfth fret produce the same note as an open string just on octave higher (e.g. open A string first course 440Hz, twelfth fret 880Hz). Another test is to play a 12th fret "harmonic" and then check it with a fretted 12 fret note. A "true" instrument should hit each note played exactly to what frequency that is required (G=392 Hz, C=261.6 Hz, E=329.6 Hz and so on). Intonation is the most important facet in building a fine instrument. This is followed very closely by playability. Now, how do we achieve intonation? It would be very simple to just double the measurement from the twelfth fret, glue on the bridge and say it close enough, but that isn't so, and never forget that an instrument expands and contracts and wood breathes.
Another factor affecting intonation is an individuals playing style, this will ultimately play a role with the instruments intonation. If the player is a hard strum er and bends his or her strings during cording (which elongates the strings and throws of the pitch) The good news is the player is having fun and that is what the ukulele is all about.
Common Wood Types
Important Note..... The selection of of a rare or expensive wood used in a ukulele is no guarantee that the instrument will be good sounding. Maybe more important than the type of wood used in the instrument is the design and construction of the instrument and the quality of the strings used. A poorly built ukulele made with the rarest of woods.... maybe breath-taking to see, but can sound lousy. Also a dead set of strings makes any ukulele sound dull.
Many types of wood are used in the construction of ukuleles. Here are some of the most common woods used... Each of these woods are unique in the beauty and tone they bring to the ukulele.
Bamboo: It is the rapid growth and natural regeneration properties of bamboo that are primarily responsible for the (green),"protect the earth" reputation for bamboo. Bamboo for stringed musical instruments is growing in availability and popularity. Although bamboo has a number of attributes that make it a suitable stringed musical instruments, one of the primary marketing points has been its environmental benefits. The world has plenty of bamboo available, and can easily get bunches more. We believe in bamboo in stringed musical instruments because it is an amazing rapidly renewable resource, and by supporting the use of this beautiful and versatile material as a music wood replacement, we are all helping protect the rare woods and keep the world a greener place! Bamboo musicwood in you uke will give you the natural beauty of hardwood without having you feel that your have made a detrimental effect on our environment. Bamboo is an excellent alternative to tree wood because bamboo can grow wood faster than any tree. Because bamboo is a rapid growing grass and not wood, it can be harvested every 5-7 years, unlike 15-100 years for many tree wood. This makes bamboo a very environmentally friendly ukulele. And bamboo ukuleles are strong! Notice that the stiffest tree is most easily cracked, while the bamboo or willow survives by bending with the wind in a typhoon. Lastly.... why do you buy ukuleles anyway? For the sound, and you will not be disappointed in the voicing of this bambo ukulele. The new ukuleles of bamboo start out with great robust sound and get even better when the voice of the instrument opens up.
Koa wood... Koa is the best-known hardwood of the Hawaiian Islands. Acacia koa is a native forest tree, unique to Hawaii, and held in reverence. Koa means bold. When we think of Hawaiian ukuleles, we always know that many of the best sounding and most beautiful ukuleles are made of Koawood. Sweet warm voiced.
Hard rock maple: Clear, heavy and very resistant, treble sound with strong attack, used on ukulele necks, bodies and tops. Mahogany: Medium density, redish in color. has the tendency to be bright and bassy, excellent to be used with maple. Used manly on bodies. Many of the vintage ukuleles are made of mahogany. Does not have the breath-taking grain patterns, but mahogany is one of my favorites in sound.
Mango wood: Properly cut and dried the lumber from many fruit and nut trees can be made suitable for the manufacture of ukuleles. An interesting new ukulele is being made from mango wood. The mango is best known for its tropical fruit, yet mango wood is a hard and dense wood and is an excellent music wood when properly seasoned and kiln dried. The great news is that mango wood is not rare and using mango wood does not reduce the supply of this delightful fruit. Once the mango reaches a certain age, it ceases to produce fruit and is harvested for its wood. Because mango trees are almost always replanted when cut down, mango wood makes for a very responsible choice of making ukuleles, and mango wood is not endangered. Mango Ukes have a clear bright tone, similar to walnut.
Rosewood: Exist in different colors and textures, today used manly on fretboards. The sound of rosewood body ukes is sweet and round. Brazilian Rosewood is long gone, yet other varieties are still available. Redwood: Very hard and resistant, some seems kind of bass sounding. Iimbuia: Very figured,hard and exotic. Beautiful grain patterns... used on tops and on back of instruments. Ebony: Primarily used in Fretboards. Same black wood as used for the black keys on a piano. has a very distinguishing smell when you work ebony in the shop.
Maple: Good density and resistant, very treblely, there are many type of maple: flamed, curly, burl, quilted and spalted... Beautiful grain patterns Spalted Wood: About Spalted Wood -- The spalted appearance that we find so attractive is the visible changes to the wood resulting from fungal attack which is part of the natural decay process. Individual spalting patterns on a specific piece of wood are unpredictable.... so each spalted ukulele is a one-of-a-kind instrument. There are many variables affecting the process. These include wood species, temperature, humidity, pH, adjacent soil types, fungus spores in the local environment, and probably many other variables. Many times only a small portion of a log will have usable spalting pattern. Many types of wood will spalt. Some such as maple, mango and birch are known for a more attractive spalting appearance. Looking for spalted wood is like going on a treasure hunt.
Linden: Linden wood is used in many entry and student ukuleles. Linden works nicely and is not expensive. Even a very low cost Linden wood ukulele with a fine set of Aquila strings sound fine!
Spruce: A very close grained wood the produces a rich, vibrant tone. One of my favorite medium priced instrument types have spruce soundboards and mahogany sides and backs. Cedar: Light to reddish wood used primarly for sound boards. One of the best sounding uke I every played was made by a local luthier from cedar wood slats from his mother's back yard fence that had been standing over 40 years.
Composite Woods: What is "composite" construction of ukuleles? Is it some plastic with wood grain printed on it.... or is it really wood? Small stringed instruments have to have thin construction to sound like anything. The sound board is 0.0625" thick. And wood being that thin is apt to crack easily or have grain separations when it got too dry. To avoid these difficulties, music instrument maker developed composite materials..... In one word, these composites are essentially "plywood".... but not the cheap plywood with junk stuffed in the middle that they use to cover houses. These composites are made for musical instruments. With composites, soundboards can be thinner.... and louder..... and typical grain splits and cracks are a thing of the past. Yes, fine custom-made instruments still use solid woods in construction. But the cost of such fine instruments are 4 times and more greater than the "composite" wood instruments.
Well-made composite instruments, such as the Hohner Lanikai line have great sound are are a great value for the money. If you can afford the custom-made solid-wood instruments, go for it... but carefully care for them.
NATO: Nato wood, also known as Eastern Mahogany, is a strong wood used on guitar necks. It is a value-priced wood used more in the lower cost instruments. However, Nato still embodies all of the properties of more commonly used.... and more expensive mahogany. Not a bad wood at all for most ukes.... except the finest ones.
Many types of wood are used in the construction of ukuleles. Here are some of the most common woods used... Each of these woods are unique in the beauty and tone they bring to the ukulele.
Bamboo: It is the rapid growth and natural regeneration properties of bamboo that are primarily responsible for the (green),"protect the earth" reputation for bamboo. Bamboo for stringed musical instruments is growing in availability and popularity. Although bamboo has a number of attributes that make it a suitable stringed musical instruments, one of the primary marketing points has been its environmental benefits. The world has plenty of bamboo available, and can easily get bunches more. We believe in bamboo in stringed musical instruments because it is an amazing rapidly renewable resource, and by supporting the use of this beautiful and versatile material as a music wood replacement, we are all helping protect the rare woods and keep the world a greener place! Bamboo musicwood in you uke will give you the natural beauty of hardwood without having you feel that your have made a detrimental effect on our environment. Bamboo is an excellent alternative to tree wood because bamboo can grow wood faster than any tree. Because bamboo is a rapid growing grass and not wood, it can be harvested every 5-7 years, unlike 15-100 years for many tree wood. This makes bamboo a very environmentally friendly ukulele. And bamboo ukuleles are strong! Notice that the stiffest tree is most easily cracked, while the bamboo or willow survives by bending with the wind in a typhoon. Lastly.... why do you buy ukuleles anyway? For the sound, and you will not be disappointed in the voicing of this bambo ukulele. The new ukuleles of bamboo start out with great robust sound and get even better when the voice of the instrument opens up.
Koa wood... Koa is the best-known hardwood of the Hawaiian Islands. Acacia koa is a native forest tree, unique to Hawaii, and held in reverence. Koa means bold. When we think of Hawaiian ukuleles, we always know that many of the best sounding and most beautiful ukuleles are made of Koawood. Sweet warm voiced.
Hard rock maple: Clear, heavy and very resistant, treble sound with strong attack, used on ukulele necks, bodies and tops. Mahogany: Medium density, redish in color. has the tendency to be bright and bassy, excellent to be used with maple. Used manly on bodies. Many of the vintage ukuleles are made of mahogany. Does not have the breath-taking grain patterns, but mahogany is one of my favorites in sound.
Mango wood: Properly cut and dried the lumber from many fruit and nut trees can be made suitable for the manufacture of ukuleles. An interesting new ukulele is being made from mango wood. The mango is best known for its tropical fruit, yet mango wood is a hard and dense wood and is an excellent music wood when properly seasoned and kiln dried. The great news is that mango wood is not rare and using mango wood does not reduce the supply of this delightful fruit. Once the mango reaches a certain age, it ceases to produce fruit and is harvested for its wood. Because mango trees are almost always replanted when cut down, mango wood makes for a very responsible choice of making ukuleles, and mango wood is not endangered. Mango Ukes have a clear bright tone, similar to walnut.
Rosewood: Exist in different colors and textures, today used manly on fretboards. The sound of rosewood body ukes is sweet and round. Brazilian Rosewood is long gone, yet other varieties are still available. Redwood: Very hard and resistant, some seems kind of bass sounding. Iimbuia: Very figured,hard and exotic. Beautiful grain patterns... used on tops and on back of instruments. Ebony: Primarily used in Fretboards. Same black wood as used for the black keys on a piano. has a very distinguishing smell when you work ebony in the shop.
Maple: Good density and resistant, very treblely, there are many type of maple: flamed, curly, burl, quilted and spalted... Beautiful grain patterns Spalted Wood: About Spalted Wood -- The spalted appearance that we find so attractive is the visible changes to the wood resulting from fungal attack which is part of the natural decay process. Individual spalting patterns on a specific piece of wood are unpredictable.... so each spalted ukulele is a one-of-a-kind instrument. There are many variables affecting the process. These include wood species, temperature, humidity, pH, adjacent soil types, fungus spores in the local environment, and probably many other variables. Many times only a small portion of a log will have usable spalting pattern. Many types of wood will spalt. Some such as maple, mango and birch are known for a more attractive spalting appearance. Looking for spalted wood is like going on a treasure hunt.
Linden: Linden wood is used in many entry and student ukuleles. Linden works nicely and is not expensive. Even a very low cost Linden wood ukulele with a fine set of Aquila strings sound fine!
Spruce: A very close grained wood the produces a rich, vibrant tone. One of my favorite medium priced instrument types have spruce soundboards and mahogany sides and backs. Cedar: Light to reddish wood used primarly for sound boards. One of the best sounding uke I every played was made by a local luthier from cedar wood slats from his mother's back yard fence that had been standing over 40 years.
Composite Woods: What is "composite" construction of ukuleles? Is it some plastic with wood grain printed on it.... or is it really wood? Small stringed instruments have to have thin construction to sound like anything. The sound board is 0.0625" thick. And wood being that thin is apt to crack easily or have grain separations when it got too dry. To avoid these difficulties, music instrument maker developed composite materials..... In one word, these composites are essentially "plywood".... but not the cheap plywood with junk stuffed in the middle that they use to cover houses. These composites are made for musical instruments. With composites, soundboards can be thinner.... and louder..... and typical grain splits and cracks are a thing of the past. Yes, fine custom-made instruments still use solid woods in construction. But the cost of such fine instruments are 4 times and more greater than the "composite" wood instruments.
Well-made composite instruments, such as the Hohner Lanikai line have great sound are are a great value for the money. If you can afford the custom-made solid-wood instruments, go for it... but carefully care for them.
NATO: Nato wood, also known as Eastern Mahogany, is a strong wood used on guitar necks. It is a value-priced wood used more in the lower cost instruments. However, Nato still embodies all of the properties of more commonly used.... and more expensive mahogany. Not a bad wood at all for most ukes.... except the finest ones.
String Types
Gut Strings: Italian Gut strings were already produced in Padoa, Verona, Venice, Treviso and Vicenza since the beginning of the 17th century. Documents of the time show that such production lasted uninterruptedly well into the 20th century.
The ukulele came into being about 1879, and All early ukuleles had gut strings. Gut strings continued to dominate the ukulele market until at advent of DuPont's nylon during World War II.
Aquila Gut Strings are wholly produced in house in Vicenza (60 Km far from Venice), to individual requirements, beginning from fresh gut, respecting and reviving the old tradition.
Changes in humidy and temperature will drive you nuts with old old gut strings in keeping your ukulele in tune. Modern gut ukulele string are better sealed and are more stable.
I still like the warmth and melodic tone of genuine gut strings.
Nylon Strings: When nylon arrived.... the entire ukulele world switched to them.... the strings had more uniform diameters and properties.... they sounded pretty good.... and they were CHEAP to produce.
Most ukulele strings today are made from nylon polymers... but do not think all nylon is the same. Different companys use different nylon polymer grades.... so they are not all the same.
Very cheap nylon strings are made from the same nylon strands that they make scrub brush bristles from.
Nylon strings take a little while to settle down and take a set. Even then you have to tweak you uke up to pitch after it has been setting a while without playing.
Nylgut Strings: These strings are a patented product of Aquila. These strings have a fuller sound than the monofiliment strings which I like better. The strings tend to be a little more cut sensitive so don't have the durability of monofilament strings.
Fluoro Carbon Strings: These are brand new to the ukulele world. Fluoro Carbon is a totally different and heavy polymer.... 1.6 sg compared to 1.3 sp for nylon. The polymer is tough so the strings are smaller diameter. The sound is loud, lively, bright, and chrisp.... which makes many "little ukuleles" really become assertive.
Fluoro Carbon is more expensive than nylon, so the cost of the strings is more. Generally these strings are sold in "double" sets.
Wound Metal Strings: Strings are wound with metal to give the string more weight and still be very flexible. Generally these metal windings are over a nylon floss core (like dental floss). If wound strings were not used on the lower notes on a ukulele, a thick polymer string would be very dead sounding.
Some people dislike wound string because they can "hiss" at you when your drag your finger tips on the winding of the strings. There are very finely wound strings called "studio" quality that minimize this hiss.
Wound Nylon Strings: Several makers are now making a new over whipped wound polymer string. These are very flexible, sound good, and do a good job.
Steel Strings: Here comes one of my pet peeves..... people wanting to put steel strings on a wooden ukulele. Yes, guitars have metal strings, so do mandolins, and banjos.... but a ukulele sounds terrible to me with steel strings. Worst of all it is easy to over tighten the strings and damage the instrument.
The exception to this are the baby "electric guitar" ukuleles that were made for metal strings only.
The ukulele came into being about 1879, and All early ukuleles had gut strings. Gut strings continued to dominate the ukulele market until at advent of DuPont's nylon during World War II.
Aquila Gut Strings are wholly produced in house in Vicenza (60 Km far from Venice), to individual requirements, beginning from fresh gut, respecting and reviving the old tradition.
Changes in humidy and temperature will drive you nuts with old old gut strings in keeping your ukulele in tune. Modern gut ukulele string are better sealed and are more stable.
I still like the warmth and melodic tone of genuine gut strings.
Nylon Strings: When nylon arrived.... the entire ukulele world switched to them.... the strings had more uniform diameters and properties.... they sounded pretty good.... and they were CHEAP to produce.
Most ukulele strings today are made from nylon polymers... but do not think all nylon is the same. Different companys use different nylon polymer grades.... so they are not all the same.
Very cheap nylon strings are made from the same nylon strands that they make scrub brush bristles from.
Nylon strings take a little while to settle down and take a set. Even then you have to tweak you uke up to pitch after it has been setting a while without playing.
Nylgut Strings: These strings are a patented product of Aquila. These strings have a fuller sound than the monofiliment strings which I like better. The strings tend to be a little more cut sensitive so don't have the durability of monofilament strings.
Fluoro Carbon Strings: These are brand new to the ukulele world. Fluoro Carbon is a totally different and heavy polymer.... 1.6 sg compared to 1.3 sp for nylon. The polymer is tough so the strings are smaller diameter. The sound is loud, lively, bright, and chrisp.... which makes many "little ukuleles" really become assertive.
Fluoro Carbon is more expensive than nylon, so the cost of the strings is more. Generally these strings are sold in "double" sets.
Wound Metal Strings: Strings are wound with metal to give the string more weight and still be very flexible. Generally these metal windings are over a nylon floss core (like dental floss). If wound strings were not used on the lower notes on a ukulele, a thick polymer string would be very dead sounding.
Some people dislike wound string because they can "hiss" at you when your drag your finger tips on the winding of the strings. There are very finely wound strings called "studio" quality that minimize this hiss.
Wound Nylon Strings: Several makers are now making a new over whipped wound polymer string. These are very flexible, sound good, and do a good job.
Steel Strings: Here comes one of my pet peeves..... people wanting to put steel strings on a wooden ukulele. Yes, guitars have metal strings, so do mandolins, and banjos.... but a ukulele sounds terrible to me with steel strings. Worst of all it is easy to over tighten the strings and damage the instrument.
The exception to this are the baby "electric guitar" ukuleles that were made for metal strings only.
Humidity Needed
Ukuleles are basically wooden instruments, and wood reacts to the relative humidity of its environment. Since ukuleles are generally small instruments, ukes may not have the humidity issues that some of the larger guitars or other stringed instruments can have. The best atmosphere for ukuleles (or any stringed instrument) is between 45% and 55%, and instruments living within this range rarely have trouble.
In very high humidity situations, wood begins to swell, the ukulele can become uncomfortable, and frequently so are you feel uncomfortable.
NEVER store you ukulele in the trunk of your car!
When the relative humidity drops to 40% or below, the ukulele's wood can begin to shrink. Sometimes the fretboard contracts a little and the frets can stick out over the edge.
Prolonged storage of your ukulele at 35% or less relative humidity, the fret ends will start to feel uncomfortable.
And when your ukulele has to live in relative humidity below 30% you may start to see tiny finish cracks or grazing of the finish of the instrument.
If you live in very dry, or very cold areas, a simple humidifier inside the ukulele case is an inexpensive way to help protect your uke. Even a mild cleaning of your ukulele with a stringed instrument polish/cleaner can help.
When you begin to have serious low humidity problems with your ukulele, you begin to ask "where is my warranty information? The bad news is that humidity issues are not covered under the warranty of most ukulele manufacturers.
In very high humidity situations, wood begins to swell, the ukulele can become uncomfortable, and frequently so are you feel uncomfortable.
NEVER store you ukulele in the trunk of your car!
When the relative humidity drops to 40% or below, the ukulele's wood can begin to shrink. Sometimes the fretboard contracts a little and the frets can stick out over the edge.
Prolonged storage of your ukulele at 35% or less relative humidity, the fret ends will start to feel uncomfortable.
And when your ukulele has to live in relative humidity below 30% you may start to see tiny finish cracks or grazing of the finish of the instrument.
If you live in very dry, or very cold areas, a simple humidifier inside the ukulele case is an inexpensive way to help protect your uke. Even a mild cleaning of your ukulele with a stringed instrument polish/cleaner can help.
When you begin to have serious low humidity problems with your ukulele, you begin to ask "where is my warranty information? The bad news is that humidity issues are not covered under the warranty of most ukulele manufacturers.
Wood Finishes
Finishes for ukuleles - Satin, Gloss, Each finish is different. Satin finish has a soft matte appearance that some people prefer the look of a more "natural" look. This is a nitrocellulose lacquer finish. As the satin finish can be easier to apply, it is more often seen with the lower priced instruments. Most of the vintage ukuleles from years gone by had a satin finish.... simply because the modern high-gloss automotive type finishes were not invented yet.
Modern Gloss finish have a beautiful, high sheen, mirror glow that which greatly enhances the color and grain patterns of the woods. And these finishes are tough also. The labor required for application and buffing of the gloss finish is more expensive than satin finishes. Both satin and gloss lacquer finishes produce excellent tone and volume in the ukulele.
Varnish or "French Polish" is the oldest method of final finishing in the history of woodworking. Natural resins are combined with spirit solvents and hand applied and polished to produce an extremely thin and protective finish. The acoustic properties of a varnish finish, enabling the wood to freely vibrate, are excellent. Visually a varnish finish is not "perfect" in appearance. Pretty hand-rubbed varnish finishes are more frequently found in violins and acoustic guitars.
Quite simply French polish is a finish made of a resin dissolved in alcohol, and applied to the wood by rubbing with a small cloth pad. The name French polish is deceptive, because it's not a furniture polish at all, but a varnish, a finish, just as lacquer is a finish. The process is very time consuming, because the "varnish" is put on by just rubbing the pad around and around and around, slowly building up a very thin layer of finish to protect and beautify the Ukulele.
The varnish finish is the most labor intensive and the most expensive.
.
All finishes need respect and care... they all can be scratched and dinged-up. Rough picks and sharp fingernails can do a lot of damage to your ukulele. Every good uke deserves a polish cloth to help care for the finish.
Just Keep Playing!
Modern Gloss finish have a beautiful, high sheen, mirror glow that which greatly enhances the color and grain patterns of the woods. And these finishes are tough also. The labor required for application and buffing of the gloss finish is more expensive than satin finishes. Both satin and gloss lacquer finishes produce excellent tone and volume in the ukulele.
Varnish or "French Polish" is the oldest method of final finishing in the history of woodworking. Natural resins are combined with spirit solvents and hand applied and polished to produce an extremely thin and protective finish. The acoustic properties of a varnish finish, enabling the wood to freely vibrate, are excellent. Visually a varnish finish is not "perfect" in appearance. Pretty hand-rubbed varnish finishes are more frequently found in violins and acoustic guitars.
Quite simply French polish is a finish made of a resin dissolved in alcohol, and applied to the wood by rubbing with a small cloth pad. The name French polish is deceptive, because it's not a furniture polish at all, but a varnish, a finish, just as lacquer is a finish. The process is very time consuming, because the "varnish" is put on by just rubbing the pad around and around and around, slowly building up a very thin layer of finish to protect and beautify the Ukulele.
The varnish finish is the most labor intensive and the most expensive.
.
All finishes need respect and care... they all can be scratched and dinged-up. Rough picks and sharp fingernails can do a lot of damage to your ukulele. Every good uke deserves a polish cloth to help care for the finish.
Just Keep Playing!
Tuner Types
Tapered Wood Tuning Pegs: The first tuning pegs found on the old ukuleles were simply a round tapered piece of wood with a knob carved on one end of it and a slit to hold the string on the other end. This is like the tuning pegs still used on violins. These simple tuning devices certainly did the job, but sometimes broke.... and finding another that matched was always difficult. When wooden pegs slipped, you just coated them with rosin to get the friction working again.
Vintage Friction Tuning Pegs:As you have already found, the weakest part of the vintage ukuleles are the tuning pegs with the tiny tightening screws, and the easily broken plastic tuning knobs. Part of the problem is the crystallization of the plastic resulting in cracks and splitting of the knob itself. The screws used are very tiny, and cannot take the stress needed for repeated tightening.
The good news is that all the modern friction tuning pegs are heavier and better.
The bad news is that none of the current manufacturers make tuning pegs which are a direct replacement of the old tiny shaft friction pegs. The only source of the vintage parts of 50 to 80 years ago is to buy a uke on ebay and salvage the parts... if they are any better.
You ask, "Can I install any of the newer friction tuning pegs with alteration to the headstock on my vintage ukulele?" The answer is "NO... you will have to drill larger holes thru the headstock of your instrument.... and you might have to make recesses for top guide bushings too if you buy the better modern tuning pegs. This will hurt the value of your
vintage ukulele
Modern Friction Tuning: Pegs Modern friction pegs have much heavier shafts, bigger tightening screws, better more crack-resistant plastic knobs.
As the modern friction pegs have larger shafts, generally a 3/16" hole is required thru the headstock of your instrument.
Better friction pegs: also have a top guide bushing to support the tuning peg shaft, and these will require a recess for the bushing to seat.
The best friction tuning pegs: also require a bottom recess, and do not depend on the friction between the knob and the headstock to hold the tension of the ukulele string, but have two friction chambers to hold the strings. Examples of this are the Grover 4's
Also available are spring-load friction pegs with thumb locking devices on them. These really do a job, but are heavy and tend to make the smaller ukes a little top-heavy.
Simple Open Geared Tuning Machines:Geared tuning machines found their way into ukuleles from Guitars. The gear system prevents slippage. In addition, the little gear train has a gear ration of about 12 to 1 making it very easy of beginning uke players to tune their instrument accurately. Generally a simple 1/4" diameter hole thru the headstock is all that is neaded for the shaft to go thru the headstock, and the tuning machines were anchored with two tiny wood screws.
Better Geared Tuning Machines:The better geared tuning machines also have a top guiding bushing that supports the shaft of the tuning machine. These require cutting a recess in the top of the headstock.
Enclosed Geared Tuning Machines: The best looking geared tuning machines have the gear box totally enclosed and prelubricated. The also have top guide bushings. Miniature geared tuning machines have been developed for the ukulele to keep the instrument from seeming too top heavy for the solo players.
Vintage Friction Tuning Pegs:As you have already found, the weakest part of the vintage ukuleles are the tuning pegs with the tiny tightening screws, and the easily broken plastic tuning knobs. Part of the problem is the crystallization of the plastic resulting in cracks and splitting of the knob itself. The screws used are very tiny, and cannot take the stress needed for repeated tightening.
The good news is that all the modern friction tuning pegs are heavier and better.
The bad news is that none of the current manufacturers make tuning pegs which are a direct replacement of the old tiny shaft friction pegs. The only source of the vintage parts of 50 to 80 years ago is to buy a uke on ebay and salvage the parts... if they are any better.
You ask, "Can I install any of the newer friction tuning pegs with alteration to the headstock on my vintage ukulele?" The answer is "NO... you will have to drill larger holes thru the headstock of your instrument.... and you might have to make recesses for top guide bushings too if you buy the better modern tuning pegs. This will hurt the value of your
vintage ukulele
Modern Friction Tuning: Pegs Modern friction pegs have much heavier shafts, bigger tightening screws, better more crack-resistant plastic knobs.
As the modern friction pegs have larger shafts, generally a 3/16" hole is required thru the headstock of your instrument.
Better friction pegs: also have a top guide bushing to support the tuning peg shaft, and these will require a recess for the bushing to seat.
The best friction tuning pegs: also require a bottom recess, and do not depend on the friction between the knob and the headstock to hold the tension of the ukulele string, but have two friction chambers to hold the strings. Examples of this are the Grover 4's
Also available are spring-load friction pegs with thumb locking devices on them. These really do a job, but are heavy and tend to make the smaller ukes a little top-heavy.
Simple Open Geared Tuning Machines:Geared tuning machines found their way into ukuleles from Guitars. The gear system prevents slippage. In addition, the little gear train has a gear ration of about 12 to 1 making it very easy of beginning uke players to tune their instrument accurately. Generally a simple 1/4" diameter hole thru the headstock is all that is neaded for the shaft to go thru the headstock, and the tuning machines were anchored with two tiny wood screws.
Better Geared Tuning Machines:The better geared tuning machines also have a top guiding bushing that supports the shaft of the tuning machine. These require cutting a recess in the top of the headstock.
Enclosed Geared Tuning Machines: The best looking geared tuning machines have the gear box totally enclosed and prelubricated. The also have top guide bushings. Miniature geared tuning machines have been developed for the ukulele to keep the instrument from seeming too top heavy for the solo players.
